5 pairs of iconic shoes
Katharine Hepburn, elegant in her loafers
There are shoes that reflect their era, symbolize their generation, or follow fleeting trends for a single season. And then there are shoes that resist the dictates of fashion and are worn tirelessly, without losing an ounce of their elegant and timeless style.
At JULES & JENN, we've selected 5 essential pairs of shoes that are worth investing in , so as not to harm the planet or our desire to be well-shod for a long time. But do you know the story behind these iconic shoes that you might already have in your closet?
The ballerinas
Worn by both men and women (with or without heels) since the 16th century, these flat shoes inspired by the world of dance were christened "ballerinas" in 1932, when Australian Jacob Bloch created a workshop for making dance slippers reworked "for the street".
In France, they enjoyed their moment of glory when actress Brigitte Bardot commissioned Rose Repetto to create an urban version of the ballet slipper, which she wore with style in 1956 in Roger Vadim's film "And God Created Woman". Madame Repetto had indeed developed the "stitch-and-turn" technique to relieve her son Roland Petit's feet; this technique involves sewing the sole inside out before turning it right side out (a technique still used today for the handcrafted production of our Charentaise slippers !).
On the left, the magnificent Brigitte Bardot in Repetto ballet flats. On the right, the JULES & JENN version in gold leather.
Later, it was Audrey Hepburn and the House of Chanel who finally put ballet flats on the feet of millions of women of all ages around the world. Their comfort, Parisian style, and rare elegance make them a coveted item season after season. So, shall we dance?
Espadrilles
Inspired by Egyptian or Andalusian sandals (depending on the version), espadrilles originated from a type of plant that was burned and braided to make soles. But the most curious thing is that before becoming a fashion accessory, they were considered "the slippers of the poor" because they were worn by miners, peasants, soldiers (they were supposedly worn by the soldiers of the King of Aragon!) or Mediterranean fishermen.
In France, the espadrille is believed to have originated in the 12th century in the Catalan Pyrenees, on both the French and Spanish sides. A few centuries later, in the 18th century, a true craft took root in the Southwest of France, with Béarn and the Basque Country becoming the stronghold of its artisanal production, thanks to local hemp (for the sole) and linen (for the canvas lining the shoe).
On the left, Grace Kelly in espadrilles. On the right, the JULES & JENN version in beige recycled cotton. © NANA PRODUCTIONS/SIPA
After the First World War, a rubber sole was added, making them more suitable for leisure and appealing to the fashion world. In the 1960s, Yves Saint Laurent conceived of a heeled espadrille with ribbons, and celebrities from all walks of life began adopting them for their holidays: they were an instant success, and variations proliferated. Even today, JULES & JENN still manufactures them in Mauléon , in the purest Basque tradition , and offers several colors for women and men . Long live the espadrille!
Leather moccasins
Whether it triumphs or divides opinion, the moccasin (originally worn only by men) remains a key piece in the male wardrobe. Even if its distant origins (a rustic shoe worn by Native Americans) may seem anecdotal, it is often associated with the American shoemaker George Bass, who, in the 1920s, is said to have been inspired by Norwegian fishermen to create a comfortable leather shoe that became a favorite among students. These students would embellish them with a penny under the vamp, the price of a phone call (hence the name "penny loafer"), creating, along with their wide-legged trousers, the "Ivy League" trend.
Worn on weekends with plus fours in Europe, or dressed up like derbies in the 1940s, the variations have been numerous and diverse. It was in the 1950s that the famous tassel loafers emerged, worn by affluent Americans. A little later, the Italian luxury brand Gucci created the horsebit loafer, in which the vamp is replaced by a horsebit. In the 1960s, this style was worn by many film stars, and young men from well-to-do families sported them with a suit.
On the left, Alain Delon and Romy Schneider in loafers. On the right, the JULES & JENN version in suede.
In the 1990s, the driving moccasin (very popular in Italy) was created, designed for comfortable driving without the foot slipping on the pedals...
Although today moccasins are still associated with a chic and dressy style for men , they are worn in a more casual way by women , who appreciate above all their comfort and flexibility.
Boat shoes
It was in 1935, while walking his dog "Prince," that Paul Sperry (born into a family of sailors in Connecticut) was struck by the ease with which his four-legged companion moved on icy ground. He, on the other hand, was used to repeated slips on his sailboat, one of which had nearly cost him his life! He then conceived of a shoe with a non-slip sole, thanks to deep grooves mimicking the tiny ridges in his dog's paws. After numerous trials, he finalized his model, designed to be water-resistant (and not to mark the decks of boats), and... jackpot! He signed a contract with recreational sailors and the US Navy in 1939, a huge commercial success.
It was then the wealthy social classes in Maine, Virginia, and the Hamptons who adopted it in turn for family boating. Its popularity grew in the 1960s, notably thanks to the Kennedy family, who were regularly photographed vacationing in the area.
On the left, the boat shoes worn by Errol Flynn. On the right, the JULES & JENN version. © 2019 BJM
But it wasn't until the 1980s that they truly came into their own, when they were featured in the influential guide "The Official Preppy Handbook". The shoe then became a must-have for vacations, emblematic of the East Coast American Preppy style.
Their prestige then spread throughout Europe, no longer limited to sea trips. They are now worn mainly in the city, on weekends, for a chic and relaxed look, and are available in many colors , both classic and more unusual.
The high heels
The quintessential symbol of femininity, the stiletto heel (from the Italian scarpino, meaning “little shoe”) was originally worn… by men! Its origins lie with the butchers of Ancient Egypt who used them to avoid staining their feet with blood! In 16th-century Venice, “chopine,” wooden slippers topped with high platforms of 10 to 12 cm, were reserved for ladies to prevent them from soiling their dresses. In the 17th century, the elevated shoe reappeared, this time adorned with lace, ribbons, or other precious stones, and captivated nobles and bourgeois—men and women—at the Court of Versailles, as a way to stand out and “avoid getting muddy in the street.”
It wasn't until the 1920s that pumps became primarily women's shoes. Considered a symbol of emancipation, they were almost exclusively worn in the evening. They gained height in 1950: thanks to Charles Jourdan and Roger Vivier (who both worked at Dior), the stiletto heel was born!
On the left, Roger Vivier pumps on the cover of ELLE issue 409. On the right, JULES & JENN pumps. © ELLE Magazine
Many designers then endlessly reinterpreted it, like Christian Louboutin, who, finding the shoes too black, decided in 1991 to paint the sole with red varnish! Bingo, the biggest international stars snapped them up.
Today, the little heeled shoe has come a long way to become a timeless and essential fashion accessory. A study says that French women certainly love pumps , but that 76% of them admit to wearing a pair of ballet flats when they wear pumps!
So, do you have one of these iconic pairs in your closet? If so, now you know its story!
